Family road trip in British Columbia: Vancouver, Vancouver Island and Whistler
It's the winter of 2022. The COVID-19 pandemic has turned everything upside down. Borders are closed, international travel is impossible, and like thousands of Quebec families, we find ourselves having to rethink our spring break completely. No California, no Mexico, no Disney this year. But one rule stands out: we're staying in Canada.
And that's when British Columbia became the obvious choice. We packed our bags, booked our flights and ferries, and set off to discover a province we barely knew - Vancouver, Vancouver Island and Whistler. We hadn't planned this Canadian road trip months in advance. We built it with what we had: the desire for adventure, our family and the road ahead of us.
And honestly? It was one of the best decisions we ever made. British Columbia blew us away every step of the way - and now we understand why this province is the stuff of dreams for travelers the world over. We'd had it in our sights all our lives, without ever really seeing it.
The bet I shouldn't have made
It all began with an innocuous phrase, tossed off lightly one January evening: «Guys, if you're good enough at snowboarding between now and the start, we'll be riding in Whistler.» In my mind, it was the perfect gamble. They were just getting started, I was in control. Or so I thought.
What I had underestimated was how quickly two determined kids can make progress when they have a carrot on the end of their nose. It took them ONE month. In four weeks, my two boys went from clumsy pendulum to controlled turn - with a smile on their faces and a look on their faces as if to say «Pis, Papa, on part-tu à Whistler?»
I'd lost my own bet. And the worst part? I couldn't even complain about it - I was too proud of them.
Whistler was our ski destination. And the boys had earned it.
Our 9-day Itinerary in British Columbia
- Day 1-2: Vancouver
Arrival in British Columbia - Stanley Park - Granville Island - Gastown - Day 3: Victoria
BC Ferries - Butchart Gardens - charming old town - Day 4: Nanaimo
Coastal city - relaxation and local exploration - Day 5-6: Ucluelet
Wild Pacific Coast - Wild Pacific Trail - secluded beaches - ocean sunsets - aquarium - Day 7-8: Whistler
Snowboarding for the 3 guys - pedestrian village - Peak 2 Peak gondola - Day 9: Vancouver (Return)
Last supper in town - drive to the airport - return flight to Quebec City
What to do and where to stay
Vancouver - Day 1 & 2
Stanley Park: electric scooter vs. electric bike
First real day in British Columbia, and we dive straight into what is probably the most beautiful urban park in North America: Stanley Park. 400 hectares of forest in the heart of the city, with a 9 km seawall running along the ocean. The plan? Rent electric scooters for the boys and me - and an electric bike for Mom, who had decided that scooters were definitely not for her.
You have to understand her: seeing her three sons and her boyfriend take off on scooters without even hesitating can be intimidating. So she opted for an electric bike - a choice she took full responsibility for, and frankly a very good one too. Meanwhile, we were off on the trail, the wind in our faces and the ocean to our left. And that's when we had one of the most delicious moments of the trip: overtaking professional cyclists in the middle of a climb, shorts tight, bikes at 5,000$, breathless - we were smiling our way up the hill, effortlessly, on our little electric scooters. The guys were jubilant. Me too, I must admit.
Stanley Park from the seawall is an experience 100% recommends for the whole family. The totem poles, the beaches, the views of Vancouver's skyscrapers in the distance, the temperate forest beside the ocean - it's all perfect. This half-day trip alone is worth the detour to British Columbia.
Granville Island - Late afternoon
In the late afternoon, we swapped scooters for legs and headed for Granville Island. This public market under the Granville Bridge is the creative soul of Vancouver: local artisans, cheese shops, bakeries, craft breweries and food stalls from all over the world. Stroll around, nibble and soak up the atmosphere. Teens love this kind of place - lively enough to be cool, open enough for them to explore at their own pace. A great way to end the first day.
Capilano Suspension Bridge - Day 2 morning
The next morning, we tackled what was to become the children's highlight of Vancouver: the Capilano Suspension Bridge. 137 metres long, suspended 70 metres above the Capilano River, surrounded by a forest of giant fir trees. We knew it would be impressive - we just didn't know how impressive.
The guys, who are used to seeing a lot, were taken aback. The bridge sways gently underfoot, the river rumbles below, the trees rise everywhere - it's as much a physical experience as a visual one. The Treetops Adventure perfectly completes the visit: seven footbridges suspended between 1,300-year-old Douglas firs. It's like being in a movie. They loved it - and honestly, so did the parents.
Science World - Afternoon Day 2
For the afternoon, we opted for Science World - the iconic geodesic dome that can be seen from all over the city. And it's an excellent surprise for teenagers: the exhibits are interactive, stimulating, never boring. You touch, you experience, you understand. The Omnimax cinema completes the visit perfectly. A Vancouver classic that richly deserves its reputation.
Where we slept in Vancouver
We recommend staying in the Downtown or West End area - a stone's throw from Stanley Park, with good transport links and everything within easy walking or scooter (yes, there they are again 😄) distance.
Victoria - The Ferry & Vancouver Island
That morning, we got up with a particular sense of excitement - not for an attraction, not for a museum, but for a ferry. And believe me, it may sound trivial when you put it like that, but the BC Ferries crossing between Tsawwassen and Swartz Bay is an experience in itself. The boat is huge - cafeteria, outdoor deck, views of the Gulf Islands as you sail by. 95 minutes of crossing time that glides by itself. The guys spent half the time on the outside deck scanning the horizon, hoping to spot a whale before they even got to Victoria.
What we particularly like about BC Ferries as a family: you take your car, put your luggage down and enjoy. No stress, no rush - just the sea, the islands and the feeling that you're entering another world. Vancouver Island starts right here, on the ferry deck.
Butchart Gardens - La Surprise du Voyage even in winter
In the afternoon, we headed for Butchart Gardens - and honestly, this was the visit where I had the least expectations. Gardens, right. We go because it's a must-see, but the boys and I were already imagining ourselves politely bored as we followed Mom between the flowers.
We were completely wrong. Butchart Gardens is 22 hectares of absolutely spectacular themed gardens - the Sunken Garden carved out of an old limestone quarry, the Japanese Garden, the Rose Garden - and a setting that goes beyond anything we could have imagined. Even the teenagers let themselves be carried away. The late afternoon light in the gardens is unreal. A visit we recommend without hesitation, and wouldn't want to miss.
Le Vieux Victoria - Evening stroll
In the evening, stroll through Victoria's historic center - the illuminated Inner Harbour, the provincial Parliament, the cobblestone streets of James Bay. Victoria is Canada's most «British» city: afternoon tea, red double-deckers, impeccable Victorian architecture. It's a place of charm, total security and an atmosphere that children and parents alike immediately appreciate. We end the evening with fish & chips at Fisherman's Wharf, sitting on the quayside with our feet in the air and sea lions fighting it out on the pontoons below.
Where we slept in Victoria
We opted for a suite with a full kitchen - essential on a family trip for breakfasts and snacks. Victoria offers great family options around the Inner Harbour, within walking distance of everything. Book ahead in high season, as good accommodations go fast!
Nanaimo - Transit & Giant Forest
A Night of Transit... Well Deserved
Nanaimo, let's be honest - it was a logistical stopover. After the intensity of Victoria, the whales and Butchart Gardens, we needed a quiet evening to recharge our batteries before the big drive to Ucluelet. We put down our suitcases, had dinner with the family and went to bed early. Tomorrow, we'll be up at the crack of dawn - and it'll be worth it.
Where we slept in Nanaimo
A simple night's stay in a well-located hotel near the harbor - the Coast Bastion Hotel offers beautiful harbor views and unpretentious family comfort. Perfect for a stopover.
The Forest of Giant Trees - On the road to Ucluelet
We leave Nanaimo at dawn, heading for the Pacific coast. And it's on this road that something unexpected happens - something we hadn't really anticipated, and which almost steals the show from the destination itself.
As you cross the center of Vancouver Island, the forest changes. The trees get bigger. Then bigger. Suddenly, you're in the midst of thousand-year-old Douglas firs and red cedars - trunks so wide you'd need four people to walk around them, rising skyward like cathedral columns. We stop. We get out of the car. We look up. And remain silent.
It's one of those moments on the road you never plan for and never forget. The guys, who'd had their eyes glued to their phones two minutes before, put everything away in one fell swoop. 📵🌲 Vancouver Island's temperate rainforest is an open-air lesson in humility - and the best possible introduction to Ucluelet, which was waiting for us at the end of the road.
Ucluelet - Le Bout du Monde en Famille
Wild Pacific Trail - Walking on the Pacific Coast
Ucluelet is the kind of place that puts your mind right. No skyscrapers, no crowds, no shopping malls - just the Pacific Ocean, the forest, the rocks and the wind. Put on your shoes and set off on the Wild Pacific Trail, a coastal path that winds along the cliffs, between waves crashing on the rocks and old cedars twisted by the offshore wind.
The walk is accessible to everyone - no need to be a seasoned hiker - but its raw beauty makes it an imposing experience. At every turn along the trail, a new view of the Pacific. The ocean here isn't soft and turquoise like in California - it's grey, powerful, almost threatening at times. And that's exactly what makes it so fascinating. You feel small, really small, standing on these cliffs facing thousands of miles of open water.
The guys, usually hard to impress, were silent. The right kind of silence - the kind that means something really moves them. Ucluelet has that power.
Surfer Viewing - The Free Show
On some of the beaches along the trail, we stop and watch. Because there's a free and fascinating spectacle playing out here every day: the surfers. Powerful, rolling, perfectly formed waves - and guys and gals who tame them with disconcerting ease. We sit on the rocks, take out the snacks, and watch.
For teenagers, it's hypnotic. The three guys couldn't believe it when they saw surfers in full wetsuits challenging 2-3-meter waves of icy water under cloudy skies. Not the sunny beaches of Malibu - this is real surfing, raw, intense, authentic. An hour goes by before you know it.
Ucluelet Aquarium - A Hidden Pearl
In the afternoon, we push open the door of the Ucluelet Aquarium - and discover one of the most unique places we've visited on our entire trip. This small community aquarium has an extraordinary feature: all the animals on display are captured locally and released alive at the end of the season. No captive belugas, no show tanks - just local creatures presented with passion and respect.
Giant Pacific octopuses, sea urchins, starfish, jellyfish, deep-sea fish - the tanks are at children's level, and some species can be touched. For teenagers, it's fascinating from a scientific point of view. For parents, it's refreshing to see an aquarium so ethically grounded in its community. A must-see in Ucluelet that we wouldn't want to miss.
Where we slept in Ucluelet
For Ucluelet, we strongly recommend that you don't skimp on accommodation - this is where the experience of sleeping on the Pacific really pays off. A chalet or resort overlooking the ocean completely transforms your stay. The sound of the waves at night, the morning fog over the forest, coffee on the terrace facing the Pacific - it's unforgettable.
Black Rock Oceanfront Resort - our absolute favorite. Direct ocean views, warm ambience, impeccable service. An investment worth every dollar.
Whistler - The Won Bet (and the Unmarked Glacier)
The Road to Whistler - Beautiful... and Stressful
The road to Whistler from Vancouver runs along Howe Sound - and it's quite frankly one of the most beautiful roads we've driven on this trip. The bay on the left, the mountains plunging into the water, the snow-capped peaks getting closer as the kilometers go by. We're drinking in the scenery.
Until we see the sign. «Mandatory chains on vehicles.» Small problem: we're riding on summer tires. And chains? We don't have any. We look at the road going up, we look at the sign, we look at our tires, and we collectively decide not to think about it too much and to carry on anyway.
On the way, an impromptu stop at Sky Pilot Mountain - and there, the end-of-day light on the snow-covered peaks was so beautiful that we thought it was a good idea to hit the road. We arrive in Whistler in the evening, too late to ski - that's for tomorrow.
Ski Day - Heading for the Glacier... Experts Only
The next morning, we rush to the rental center, get everyone fitted out - grab our tickets and head up. Mom accompanies us to the top to do the Peak to Peak, we make her comfortable in the gondola and say: «Let's meet for dinner in the village!»
And then we made a decision that would turn out to be... memorable. At the top, we could see the ascent going even higher. Towards the glacier. With a small sign clearly indicating «Experts only». We look at each other. We go up.
At the very top, it's immediately clear why this is for experts only. Visibility almost nil, no marked trails, not a single tree as a landmark - just a silent white expanse going off in all directions. We stand there, completely overwhelmed by the situation, for a good 5 minutes. Nobody talks. No one moves.
Finally, we took the plunge. And we find ourselves... somewhere else. Another slope, another little village at the bottom of the mountain we'd never seen on any map. The guys look at each other. Dad scratches his head. We climb back up, get out the trail map, and start the big mission: to find Mom.
We finally found her back in the village for dinner, warm and welcoming us with the smile of someone who had made the right choice all along.
Peak to Peak & Sous-Bois - The Perfect Afternoon
After dinner, we all set off again - Mom included this time. We start with the Peak to Peak Gondola: 4.4 km between the peaks of Whistler and Blackcomb, suspended in the void 436 metres above the ground. The view is truly unreal.
Then you discover the undergrowth. And then it's a total revelation. Slaloming between the trees in light, fresh snow, finding your own lines, calling yourself from tree to tree - it's another dimension of snowboarding. The guys don't want to leave. And neither do I.
We could have stayed for hours. But reality caught up with us: we had to get back to Mom and get back on the road to Vancouver. Two nights in a hotel in Whistler was out of our budget, and we quickly realized why.
Where to sleep in Whistler - La Surprise de l'Auberge
Whistler is the most expensive destination of the trip - without question. Hotels in the village reach heights as dizzying as the slopes. Our solution? The Whistler Youth Hostel - and frankly, it's a pleasant surprise. Clean, well-kept, modern, with 4-bed dormitories perfectly suited to a family. We didn't expect this level of comfort for the price.
That said, even the youth hostel in Whistler is completely overpriced compared to the rest of the trip. That's the reality of Whistler: you go for the experience, you tighten the budget, and you accept that it's expensive. And believe us - it's worth every penny.
💡 The bet? One month to learn to snowboard. Two teenagers. Whistler's expert glacier. I think we can officially say they earned it-although maybe Dad should have read the trail signs more carefully.
Vancouver - Last Day : The Aquarium & Goodbye
Vancouver Aquarium - Beautiful... But Monterey Stays King
For our last half-day in British Columbia, we treat ourselves to the Vancouver Aquarium, nestled in the heart of Stanley Park. And it's a wonderful visit - the shows are carefully staged, the tanks are impressive, the animals are magnificent. Beluga whales, sea otters, dolphins - it's a great morning out with the family, relaxed, with no rush and no tight schedule. The perfect way to round off a trip in style.
But let's be honest - and the guys said it before we even got out: Monterey Bay is on another level. The California Aquarium remains in a class of its own - the size of the tanks, the diversity of species, the total immersive experience. Vancouver is beautiful. Monterey is unforgettable. Both are worth a visit, but if you had to do only one in your life... now you know which one to choose.
Le Retour - A suitcase full of memories
Back on the plane to Quebec City, we take stock. One week. Five destinations. A ferry, an unmarked expert glacier, thousand-year-old trees, surfers in the Pacific waves, Whistler undergrowth and three guys on snowboards who won their bet hands down.
COVID had closed the borders to us. British Columbia opened our eyes. We'd had this treasure under our noses forever - and it took a global pandemic for us to finally discover it. I'm not sure we would have come up with the idea otherwise.
How much should you budget for 10 days in British Columbia with your family?
British Columbia is an absolutely gorgeous destination - but let's be honest, it's a trip that seriously budgets too. Whistler alone can take a toll on the wallet, and the restaurants in BC are no picnic. Here's a realistic estimate for a family of 4.
Flights Round trip Québec City → Vancouver for the whole family - $3,000 $
Hosting 2 nights Vancouver at 180 $/night + 1 night Victoria at 180 $/night + 1 night Nanaimo at 130 $/night + 2 nights Ucluelet at 220 $/night + 2 nights Whistler (youth hostel) at 180 $/night - 1,670 $
Vehicle Car rental for 8 days - 500 $
BC Ferries 2 crossings with car + 4 passengers - 350 $
Food Hotel breakfasts + lunches and dinners in restaurants - ~1,200 $ (restaurants are overpriced, so store around!)
Activities Stanley Park scooters, Capilano, whale watching, Butchart Gardens, Ucluelet aquarium, Whistler ski + equipment rental, Peak to Peak - 1 800 $
Gas & miscellaneous : 400 $
Total trip: ~8,920 $ for 2 adults and 2 children
💡 Note: Whistler alone accounts for almost 30% of the total budget between accommodation, skiing and food. If the budget is tight like we are, two days there is more than enough - and it's worth every dollar spent.
Trip Checklist — British Columbia · 9 Days
📋 Documents
- Passports or Canadian Citizenship Card — Domestic Travel
- Valid driver's license – mandatory car rental
- Travel insurance recommended — expensive out-of-province healthcare
- Fee-free credit card — everything is paid by card in B.C.
- BC Ferries Reservation Printed or PDF — Vancouver → Victoria
👕 Clothes — 4 vibes in 9 days
- Vancouver and Victoria: mild and variable, 15-20°C
- Ucluelet and Pacific Coast: windy, foggy, cool even in summer — 12-16°C
- Whistler : according to season — snowboarding = full ski attire required
- Waterproof mandatory — Pacific coast gets wet without warning
- Ski clothing + thermal underwear for Whistler
- Ski helmet if available — otherwise rental on site
- Waterproof Hiking Shoes — Wild Pacific Trail and Stanley Park
- Comfortable sandals or shoes for Vancouver, Victoria, and Whistler Village
- Multiple layers — temperatures vary enormously from one stage to another
Daypack
- Waterproof Bag — Pacific Coast and Ucluelet Rainforests
- Reusable water bottles — excellent drinking water everywhere in B.C.
- Sunscreen — useful even on cloudy days
- Binoculars — whale and bird watching on the Pacific coast
- Ski backpack for Whistler — helmet, gloves, beanie
Medicine
- Sufficient quantity of usual medications
- Anti-blister cream — lots of trail walking
- Seasickness medication for a rough BC Ferries crossing
- Basic first aid kit
- Quebec Health Insurance Card — Valid but partial reimbursements outside the province
📱 Tech
- No eSIM needed — Canadian plan works everywhere
- Check data coverage in rural Ucluelet — limited signal
- Google Maps offline for Ucluelet and route to Whistler
- Application BC Ferries — Schedules and Real-time Availability
- Power bank — long excursion days
- GoPro or waterproof camera — wild coast and snowboard
💰 Budget & Logistics
- Canadian dollar — no exchange necessary
- British Columbia = expensive destination — higher restaurant and activity budget than in Quebec
- Book BC Ferries in advance - sold out in summer on popular crossings
- Book Butchart Gardens in advance — a must-see in Victoria
- Whistler: Rent ski equipment on-site — cheaper than transporting
- Buy Whistler lift pass online in advance — significant savings
- Peak 2 Peak Gondola — book online, long lines without reservation
- Gasoline more expensive than in Quebec — plan for on the road budget
- Vancouver parking = expensive, use public transport in the city
🏔️ Must-sees you shouldn't miss
- Stanley Park by bike — rent at the park entrance, a must-do
- Granville Island - public market, artisans, unique atmosphere
- Butchart Gardens — spectacular year-round, evening illuminations
- Wild Pacific Trail in Ucluelet — cliffside trail facing the Pacific Ocean, giant waves
- Ucluelet Aquarium — small but excellent, perfect for families
- Peak 2 Peak in Whistler — 360° view of the Rockies, dizzying and magnificent
- Snowboarding in Whistler— the 3 guys will remember this their whole lives
- Last Supper in Vancouver — Gastown or Granville to finish in style
